March 19th, 2024 Libya and Iraq

 

Babylon and Ur stand out as the very unique highlights of this journey, offering captivating glimpses into ancient civilizations. I am finally finished with Africa with Libya! The cuisine was exquisite, and the warmth of the Iraqi people left a lasting impression.

In conversations about America, I found a prevailing sense of neutrality. While many appreciate American music, culture and values, there's a palpable discomfort with the perception of Iraq as a nation perpetually recovering from the consequences of American involvement in conflicts.

March 19th, 2024 Financials

 

I spent 3854.76 USD for Libya and Iraq. While Iraq offered no organized tours and entry was relatively inexpensive, transportation costs escalated due to the absence of robust tourism infrastructure. In contrast, Libya required a mandatory tour priced at 1250 USD.

December 23rd, 2023 Erbil, Iraq to San Francisco, California

4AM I left for the airport. It was rainy but there was just taxi driver just waiting right outside. It was several kilometers and I paid him 4500 IQD. We got to the Erbil airport at 4:40AM. We had to wait in a separate building before being picked up by a bus to the main terminal building.

7AM I sat in the lounge for over an hour before boarding 7AM. It was a short flight to Istanbul but the Turkish lounge honestly is much better than the IGA lounge. I tried a little bit of everything and then boarded for the flight back to San Francisco.

5PM Flight was long but I arrived just after 5PM and took an Uber home, concluding my journey.

December 22nd, 2023 Mosul and Erbil, Iraq

10AM I woke and checked out of the hotel. My first destination was the old bridge, and from there, I wandered through the labyrinthine streets of the ancient city. What met my eyes was a scene of desolation and ruin, mirroring the grim images that had been broadcast on CNN.

Mosul, Iraq

12PM I found the wall painting. I then walked to Bashtabya Castle, which was closed just like everything else. I took a picture from the left of it on top of a building still under construction.

2PM I grabbed a taxi from the hospital to the Mosul car park. The fare for the taxi ride to Erbil was 10,000 IQD. Along the journey, I encountered yet another series of checkpoints, where my foreign status prompted repeated stops, a recurring feature of my travels.

4PM Upon reaching Erbil, a fellow passenger kindly directed me to the city center. Unfortunately, the Citadel, as advertised, was closed for repairs.

Erbil Citadel

5PM I walked on a half-circuit around the Citadel and then made my way to Kebab Rania for dinner. here, I had a chicken and lamb kebab. Following my meal, I secured accommodation at a nearby hotel for a reasonable rate of 2,000 IQD.

6PM I went back to stroll around the citadel one more time. I grabbed a pistachio cake and shared it with a homeless woman and her baby. I hung around the main square until 8PM or so.

December 21st, 2023 Ashur and Mosul, Iraq

5AM I was awakened by someone's morning prayer, which disrupted my sleep. I moved downstairs but found it difficult to fall back asleep.

6:30 AM I had a cup of tea for 250 IQD and then took a taxi to Malwiya Minaret. It was closed. How shocking... I took the best picture that I could and made the driver to go to the side of the sun.

Malwiya Minaret

8AM I arranged for a ride to the checkpoint to retrieve my passport. From there, I took another taxi to Qasr al-Ashiq and negotiated a fare of 35,000 IQD to reach Ashur.

Qasr al-Ashiq, Iraq

10:30AM We reached Ashur, and the driver proposed an additional 35,000 IQD to continue on to Mosul. However, I had my heart set on seeing Hatra, so I politely declined.

1:30PM My exploration of Ashur was extensive, and I had the entire place to myself. I even had the opportunity to venture inside a Ziggurat, which bore a striking resemblance to the grand gallery in the pyramids.

Ashur, Iraq

2PM Since there were no available taxis at the location, I received a call from someone who demanded 100,000 IQD for a ride to Mosul, an outrageous price. Instead, I hitched a ride to the intersection with the help of an Iraqi school teacher, who then assisted me in finding a taxi to the main Highway 1. The police arranged a second ride for me to reach Hatra.

3PM Upon arrival at Hatra, I quickly realized that Othman Anees from Facebook was correct; I needed to purchase a ticket in advance from Mosul. Despite the efforts of the checkpoint police to assist me, the request was ultimately denied. Reluctantly, I hired a taxi to take me to Mosul.

4PM I reached Mosul and arranged for another taxi to transport me to the city center. I found refuge in a hotel for 20,000 IQD and then ventured out for a leisurely stroll. I also had some repairs done, fixing a button and my shoe for a total of 2,000 IQD. Unfortunately, the repair job on my wallet didn't go well. I had a lamb boat for 1,250 IQD and another kebab for 6,500 IQD.

5:50PM The pistachio ice cream at Alshark was very good. I went to sleep at 8PM.

December 20th, 2023 Baghdad to Samarra, Iraq

1AM I retired to my hotel room and went to bed.

8AM I left the hotel but returned shortly to retrieve my camera for the visit to Abbasid Palace. It took me about 20 minutes to return, and during that time, I decided to take my luggage with me for added flexibility.

9AM I hailed a taxi, and as we made our way, we passed by Al-Khilani Mosque and Square en route to Abbasid Palace.

10AM Following my exploration of Abbasid Palace, I hailed another taxi to reach the Iraqi National Museum, a treasure trove of Assyrian artifacts. Among the remarkable finds were Assyrian flying bulls, some with five legs, and human remains dating back to 2900 BC.

12:30PM I left and exchanged 100 USD nearby. The exchange lady tried to get me a tut-tut to Taq Kasra. The exchange lady attempted to arrange a tut-tut ride to Taq Kasra, which raised my suspicions. Nevertheless, I decided to give it a shot. However, the ride took me further north than expected. I enlisted the help of a few young women to find a cab for me, which cost 10,000 IQD.

2:30PM Upon arriving at Taq Kasra, I discovered it was closed for the day. The driver then took me to a nearby building, which he indicated might have been Saddam Hussein's Palace, though I couldn't be certain. This driver spoke very little English. After some negotiation, I agreed to pay him 24,000 IQD to take me back to the Baghdad car parking

5PM At the car park, it seemed that shared taxis were the only option available. I patiently waited for 45 minutes until we found three other passengers to share the ride with.

7:45PM As it turned out, the information I had received on Facebook was accurate—there were no hotels in Samarra. Initially, they considered sending me back to Baghdad, but I suggested Tikrit as an alternative. However, a new option arose, which involved staying at the Imam Ali Al Hadi Mosque. They held onto my passport at the first checkpoint.

8:10PM Someone working there kindly provided me with food and juice. I had to store my laptop and luggage separately. I wandered around the Imam for about 30 minutes before settling down on the floor with two blankets at 9 PM. After an hour, I relocated closer to a door with some AC heating.

December 19th, 2023 Ur and Baghdad, Iraq

7:30AM The alarm woke me but I snoozed through it and got up just before 9AM. The Imam Ali mosque here was impressive, although not as grand as the ones in Karbala.

10AM I set out at 10AM, strolling to the drop-off intersection where I caught a bus headed to the garage. We had to wait for two more passengers, but after a mere 10 minutes, we were on our way, departing at 10:30 AM.

1:30PM We finally arrived at Nasiriya. It took 3 hours. I was stopped by 2 checkpoints. From there, I hopped into a taxi bound for the Great Ziggurat of Ur. As it loomed in the distance, it appeared massive, but I soon discovered it was an optical illusion. This ancient site dates back to around 2400 BC and served as a temple dedicated to the moon.

3PM I left the site and shared a taxi with a girl I met at the site to the Nasiriya parking. I waited another half an hour in a Dodge taxi. Apparently, that's what the special taxis usually use. I gave my PlayStation hat to a kid selling water. Our car left at 4:07PM.

7:30PM I finally arrived in Baghdad, where the three boys I shared the taxi with recommended Zarzour Restaurant for dinner, and that's where I decided to dine.

8:30PM I had sheep's head for 25,000 IQD. I walked a few blocks but couldn't find any good accommodation. Fortunately, a friendly driver offered me a ride to Baghdad Hotel, though it came with a hefty price tag of 170 USD, which I politely declined.

11PM I checked into Al Faraby Hotel for 30,000 IQD. I then went downstairs to check out a few bars nearby. I was sure what it was. There was a woman singing and a mix of both men and women of various ages enjoying the evening.

December 18th, 2023 Baghdad, Karbala and Najaf, Iraq

5AM I arrived and spent an hour obtaining a visa on arrival. Initially, I had planned to join a friendly individual I met at the gate in Amman. However, recalling my past experiences in Afghanistan, I decided against it due to potential risks.

7:30AM I left the airport amidst a throng of taxi hagglers. Opting for a shared taxi, I paid 10,000 IQD to reach the main taxi car park. There, a persistent driver insisted on taking me to Babylon for 30 USD, even temporarily holding my luggage ‘hostage’ in his car. After he found other customers, I escaped to a nearby restaurant. Another driver persistently followed me, but I managed to elude him and hired a young employee from the restaurant to drive me for the same fare. We checked Bayee Parking for a bus to Babylon, priced at 9,000 IQD. Before departing, I exchanged 100 USD for local currency at a rate of 1,520 IQD per USD. We then proceeded to Alawi Garage, from where I took a shared cab to Hillah for 10,000 IQD.

10:30AM The taxi driver dropped me off far from my intended destination and demanded an additional 10,000 IQD, which I refused. Unable to find a sim card for ride-sharing apps, I hired an older driver for 4,000 IQD to take me.

11AM I explored the reconstruction of Babylon. The site director, eager to make some money, showed me Saddam Hussein's palace and the remnants of the Tower of Babylon. After touring the palace and taking a quick glimpse at Nebuchadnezzar's Summer Palace, I was dropped off at the intersection around 3PM.

Saddam Hussein's palace

Babylon, Iraq

4PM I arrived at Karbala. I spent two hours visiting the Holy Shrine Of Imam Hossain and Abu Fadhl Al-Abbas, which was impressively ornate and involved mild security checks.

6PM I headed back to the intersection and caught a bus to Najaf, enduring a long and cold journey with frequent stops and open windows.

8PM I was in Najaf searching for food and accommodation near the Imam. I enjoyed delicious kebabs for just 2,000 IQD on the food street and found a hotel for around 20,000 IQD. After declining a hotel without hot water, I settled into another with questionable water and a malfunctioning AC. However, they installed a heater in my room, and after adjusting the shower settings, it became hot. I slept at midnight.

December 17th, 2023 Leaving Tripoli, Libya through Cairo, Egypt and Amman, Jordan

7:15AM I woke and Mahmoud picked me up at 8AM. We reached the airport by 8:30AM, and I managed to get through customs by 9AM.

2:30PM The flight left in about 1 hour. Following a 3-hour journey, I arrived in Cairo. I took the transfer bus to get to terminal 2. I waited another hour until 4:30PM to get the Royal Jordanian boarding pass with a Yemeni family at the departure. There was some unclear situation that kept us waiting for an additional 30 minutes, involving the family's father and an officer.  Finally, we were allowed to proceed, and I made my way to the Al Alein Lounge, where I found a much-needed massage chair.

10:15PM I left for Amman, Jordan. The flight was brief, just an hour. I checked out all three lounges. First, I checked the Petra Lounge, which was peaceful but inaccessible until midnight due to my 4AM flight. Then, I visited the Plaza Premium Lounge, followed by the Petra Lounge again. Notably, all lounges charge for shower access. Eventually, I settled in the Royal Jordanian Lounge, the largest of the three, where I enjoyed some ice cream.

December 16th, 2023 Leptis Magna, Libya

9AM We started our day with a visit to Martyr's Square, taking in its sights under the morning light. This was followed by a two-hour drive to the ancient city of Leptis Magna.

Martyr's Square

12PM Leptis Magna was big. It had two large forums, pools, bathhouses, and a grand theater. We drove to the eastern side to see the two lighthouse ruins, the amphitheater, and the race track. We spent two and a half hours there.

2:30PM We finished and left for lunch. We waited 30 minutes to get food at this restaurant off the highway. I had lamb couscous.

6PM We arrived back at the Al Aseel Hotel. I had a mixed grill and a vegetable soup there. Remember when Christabel said we couldn't leave the hotel at night. Well, I asked and I could. I ventured out for a walk to Martyr's Square. The night was quiet with all the shops closed, and my walk was cut short by a sudden downpour, prompting me to return to the hotel,

December 15th, 2023 Qasr Al Haj and Kabaw, Libya

8AM I found the hotel's breakfast offerings rather disappointing. However, the day quickly picked up when Mahmoud arrived at 9AM, and we embarked on our journey to Qasr Al Haj. By 12:30PM, we reached it – a 700-year-old storage building once vital for caravans, in active use until the 1960s.

Qasr Al Haj

2PM We reached Tarmeisa, a quaint village nestled atop a mountain, deserted since the 1970s. Its silent streets and abandoned homes spoke volumes of its past.

View from Tarmeisa, Libya

3PM We arrived at Kabaw, a 5-story storage building. Dating back 1000 years, it closely resembled Qasr Al Haj but with an added challenge: it lacked a stepwell, offering only protruding steps and tree branches for climbing. This ancient structure was in use until the 1940s.

Kabaw, Libya

3:30PM We took half an hour for lunch and left for Gharyan. 

7:30PM We took four hours to reach Hosh elhafer belhaj. These underground rooms, excavated 10 meters beneath the surface, were once 3000 in number. The one we visited was exceptionally well-preserved. After a brief 20-minute exploration, we departed for Tripoli.

Hosh elhafer belhaj

9:30PM After a 2 hour drive, we reached Tripoli. I had to do the Zoom meeting on the phone and did the last 10 minutes at the hotel. I had mixed grilled seafood at the hotel.

December 14th, 2023 Sabratha and Tripoli, Libya

3:30AM The wake-up call roused me. I quickly took the hotel shuttle to the airport, spending the next two hours in the lounge before our 6AM departure to Tripoli.

9:45AM Landing in Libya marked my final continental African destination. There was a brief delay at customs; they scrutinized my visa and held me up until my tour guide, Mahmoud, along with the tourist police, came to my aid. 

11AM We set out for Sabratha, a mesmerizing coastal ruin just west of Tripoli.

4PM Our exploration concluded and we headed back to Tripoli for dinner. The meal lasted 1.5 hours, capped off with a shared kunafa for dessert. I would have preferred to go see the old city in daylight.

6PM We toured the old city, later driving to the Green Square. I arrived back at the hotel at 9PM.

December 13th, 2023 Cairo, Egypt

10AM I arrived in Paris. I went to the wrong Star Alliance lounge and then had to walk all the way back to where I started. I took a shower and spent an hour in the lounge. There wasn't much to eat there.

1:50PM I got to the gate and played a game on the PS5 until I boarded. The black guy behind me didn't let me lean back in my seat. The stewardess told me that he said I was bothering him. Can you believe it?! I told them that it was their job to manage and fix the situation. He started shaking my seat violently when I leaned it back. They moved me to another seat.

8PM I arrived in Cairo. I didn't realize that, due to the long layover, they had given me a complimentary visa for Egypt and a hotel stay. I arrived at the hotel at 10PM. They even provided dinner. Thy closed at 11PM.